London Walks 9

Contact: Email the group leader(s) at londonwalks9@tonbridgeu3a.uk  

Group Leaders:  Penny Davies and Sue Treharne

Exploring the Alleyways of the City of London

On a day in late February, intrepid members of London Walking Group 9 set off to explore some of the back streets and alleyways in the City of London. Starting at London Bridge we walked along the river and crossed over at Blackfriars. The large figure of the black friar himself stared down at us from his perch above the doorway of the pub which bears his name . Unfortunately, it was too early in the

day for the pub to be open so we continued on our way.  We passed many buildings of note – Apothecaries’ Hall being one of them, and who knew that Agatha Christie sat her exams here to become a pharmaceutical assistant. Passing through Playhouse Yard and into Carter Lane and then on to Wardrobe Place – all these names have a history all their own. More historical names: Distaff Lane, Old Fish St Hill and on to Cleary Gardens. 

Another surprise here with a terrace planted with grape vines – a gift from the winemakers of the Loire valley. On we went, past Painters’ Hall and into Great Trinity Lane, Garlick Hill, Bow Lane and Ye Olde Watling public house on the corner of the Roman road of Watling Street. John Milton Passage (named after the poet) led us into One New Change. This presented us with a shock of the modern shopping centre but with the added value of a free glass-fronted lift to take us up six floors, with a brilliant view of St Paul’s Cathedral, to a rooftop terrace.

From here we made our way to Milk Street, Russia Row, Lawrence Lane and into Guildhall Yard, where we noted gas lamps and a now rare police phone box. We were really meandering now, criss-crossing many alleys in Old Jewry, once the city’s Jewish quarter, and Frederick’s Place, with its beautiful 18th century buildings including the former home of Benjamin Disraeli. Some of the houses still retain their original torch snuffers outside.

We then passed through Post Office Court, from where the mail coaches once departed, before continuing into Change Alley, Bengal Court, St Michael’s Alley, Corbet Court and finally Lombard Street, where we settled down for a very welcome and well-earned lunch.

More meandering followed through Change Alley and Philpot Lane, named after the Lord Mayor in 1378. Looking up, always important on these walks, we noted barley twist columns and dogs’ and pigs’ heads carved into the eaves of the coffee shop at 23 Eastcheap on the corner of Philpot Lane. Also visible were two brown mice fighting over a large chunk of cheese, said to commemorate the death of a construction worker who died fighting a colleague because each believed the other had stolen his lunch.

We completed our walk with a visit to the London Mithraeum, named after Mithras, a god with roots in ancient Iranian religion. This fascinating underground museum offers an insight into the cult of Mithras during the Roman Empire, where he was revered as an invincible bringer of light and salvation.

We then headed home by bus and train, weary but satisfied after a fascinating day exploring yet another part of London, one that some of us may have worked in for years but never had the time or opportunity to properly discover and appreciate all its hidden secrets.

Sue Terry